hi, need some help regarding my squeaky saddle. how do i get rid of the noise? i think its coming from the rails. thanks Hello.... try removing the saddle from the bike - remove it from the seatpost and inspect seatpost for dirt or cracks - lube seatpost slightly with petroleum jelly -vaseline ok - tighten all the bolts holding the seat to the rails - replace it all back together and double check quick release or seatpost bolt..and maybe it won't squeak... if it still does - maybe it is coming from another area, or from the welds where seat rails attach are going bad... good luck ride on stan I have a Specialized Rockhooper and the seat sqeaks terribley when I pedal. The seat is the ergo type concave channel for low pressure in the seat area. It is not the drive train as there is no noise when I am climbing out of the saddle. Could is be the mounting clamps that should be greased ? Tony, Hello! If you are positive that the squeak is from the seat or seat post here are a few things you can do. First, remove the seat post from the seat tube (it will be a hex bolt or quick release lever). Clean the seatpost with something like Simple Green or soap and water, and then lube it lightly with vaseline or bike grease before replacing it and tightening it up. Then, make sure that it is tight enough. Next, check any/all bolts on the saddle, particularly the main bolt holding the saddle to the post. Also the adjuster bolt for the saddle tilt should be tight. Wiggle the saddle in several directions to see if it creaks after all is tight... If you still have the noise, then it ,ay be somewhere else possibly the handlebars or pedals, or rear shock mounting area to frame, etc... good luck stan Hi I'd like to get your opinion on saddle leveling relating to suspension forks (mountain bikes). Common wisdom is the saddle should be dead parallel to the ground but no one seems to take into account the suspension loading when setting this. Typically the bike will be some 25mm down in the front when a rider is seated thereby dropping the seat angle considerably. Should the seat be paralleled taking this into account or not? ie the back of the bike jacked up proportionally to the compression in the forks measured when the rider is seated Regards Malcom Malcolm, Hello! We recommend that you adjust the saddle so that it is comfortable to you on a long ride, and doesn't give you any problems. While the geometry changes with the suspension as you mention, start at the saddle being level with the ground, and then tilt the nose down a bit and experiment with different angles. Each saddle and rider will have a certain preference. Mine is to ride with the nose down a bit from the level position to transfer the weight more to my ischial bones and further back in my crouch area. See what works best for you... thanx stan *Manimal: I'm back on the road again after being run over by a taxi last year, at that time I used to ride my bike only on paved areas (city). Recently I bought a mountain bike with a suspension fork, its wheels are 26" in diameter and it's all shimano equipped. Some of my coworkers are riding their wheels in a new natural park here in town. I searched the web and found your amazing site, the question I have is that you recommend the saddle height should be as when standing up your feet should be on the floor and when sitting on the saddle your legs should have a slight bend. When sitting down my legs do have that slight bend, but only the tip of my toes touch the floor when not pedaling making me un-ride the saddle. Will this be a problem?? I don't want to hurt my back when riding trails. Thanks in advance for your response. Ignacio Ignacio, Thanx for your question... Seat height is an individual matter and can vary according to terrain and conditions. That is why we like a quick release seapost, so you can adjust it easily. It sounds like your saddle is a bit too high. When stopped and seated, your feet should touch the ground, but not your heels. You should be able to balance the bike while standing still and seated in the saddle. Experiment with what feels comfortable. Remember the old tenet: raise when climbing and lower when descending. This is only practical on what may be extended climbs or downhills, as you need to dismount to do it. Hope this has helped you!! ~~MaNiMaL~~ *How about the type of seat? This is personal preference. Some riders go for the least weight and a skinny saddle. This may be good for racing, but hard on your butt for rocky and bumpy riding, unless you have suspension. A wider seat can be more comfortable if you weigh alot, and a seat cushion (blob) can also be good for extended riding if you don't mind trading weight for comfort. The Wrecking Crew is now testing the cut-away saddles (to minimize pressure on the prostate area) and getting good results. Adjust the tilt and forward-aft for your comfort, and experiment a little with this. *How should I adjust the seat height? Usually the height of the seat should be set so that your leg is almost fully extended at the bottom of your pedal stroke. Also, in difficult terrain you want to be able to reach the ground with both feet and still keep the bike upright. Sometimes we find it helpfull to raise the seat slightly going uphill, and lower it slightly going downhill. *What can I do if my seatpost doesn't stay tight and moves? Make sure the binder bolt, or quick release, is as tight as you can make it. A quick release must be turned and set so that it takes alot of hand pressure to close it all the way. If your bike has a plastic or carbon fiber seatpost, then it may need to be extra tight or replaced with a metal seatpost. If your seat swivels or moves downward when biking, then it is loose. A quick release lever allows quick adjustment of seat height - this lets you lower the seat going downhill, but then raise it for the inevitable climb back up! |
