Ian, Hello.... thanx for your inquiry about the spring rate for you and your son.... it seems as if the 600 is probably ok for you - but keep in mind after a few years the spring will degrade and soften slightly - so it if is a few years old you may want to go with a new spring - and 600 or 650 would probably be ok for you... as for your son, it sounds like he should go to the 450 or 500 spring rate - although he does not weigh alot, he is doing some big drops - and also as he gets older his weight will increase... thanx and it sounds like you two are doing some awesome riding together!!! ride on stan Dr StanMan, I have a question which everyone seems to have an opinion on but few tend to agree with me. I have been using Azonic A frame pedals for my off road single track/all mountain type riding here is new England. All my fellow club members use clipless and think I am at a big disadvantage. Frankly, I can run most of them into the ground but I do find that climbing hills would benefit from being clipped in. My question is; is there a pedal that has the best of both worlds? An easy to use clipless design with a solid, stable platform for blasting down hills for example? What about shoe design, what would work well with this type of pedal. A trials buddy told me of a guy named Hans Rey who uses a pedal which is clipless on one side and platform on the other. Does such a pedal exist, who makes it? I like being able to simply take my foot off whenever i need to. I have tried clipless but frequent tipovers left me very frustrated. I want the best of both, your comments would be appreciated. Regards, John John, Hello... thanx for your inquiry and comments about this issue for pedal selection for mountain bike riders. Basically, it is wonderful to have a choice to ride clipless or platform pedals. Most riders usually seem pretty adamant about the style that they ride, and would not switch - few riders do both. Usually cross country mountain bikers will use clipless, but most downhiller's ride platform. Toe clips are definitely "old school" but some riders still use these effectively! I ride on platform pedals all the time, and do not ride clipless - but this is just my personal preference. I do not race or enter any competitions, and often need to hike or carry the bike on some trails that I use, so I ride in stiff soled hiking boots. The worst thing about platform pedals is probably the chance of shin injury from hitting the pedals while walking the bike or wiping out, or having your foot come off inadvertently. Also, you can not get power from the upstroke, or have the feeling of being attached to the bike. Clipless pedals are probably more popular, and those riders see some advantage to a better pedal stroke, more power, and better pedal contact. They can't imagine not being clipped in. They claim better balance and control and would not ride a platform pedal. These riders have worked out any gear or equipment issues, and can safely ride clipless. However, one BIG reason for me to ride with platform pedals is that I feel I can easily remove my foot from the pedal during a wipeout or endo. I always come off like a cat, and can easily get my feet under me during an unexpected wipeout. Sometimes I feel that clipless riders are more prone to injury, as their feet get stuck in the pedals, or they fall with the bike on top of them, or are forced to hold out their hands and receive hand or collar bone injuries. However, most clipless riders seem to feel that are not at greater risk - and the experienced ones may not be at risk. AND YES, there is a pedal that offers both - it is platform on one side and clipless on the other w/ SPD binding. It is the Shimano PD-M324. This will allow you to switch back and forth while riding and get the best of both worlds. They are 530 grams, and retail for about $79. Whatever style an individual choses, it is usually based on cost, personal preference, experience, or riding technique and adds a certain degree of customability to the sport - so let em' both ride on... stan Hello, when I ride my mtb my hands some times go numb. I wear motocross type gloves, and it usually happens about a half an hour into my ride. It doesn't affect my ability to control my bike, but it is uncomfortable. I get the same numbness in my hands when I ride my motorcycle and assumed that it was from engine vibration, but the feeling is actually worse on my mtb. If it makes any difference I work as a industrial machinery mechanic and use my hands hard all the time, and they are very muscular, but I don't ride with a death grip. Any ideas on what the cause of, and remedy to this problem is? thanx Andrew. nahalf70@aol.com keep up the good work on this great site Andrew, Hello... thanx for your inquiry about numb hands while riding your mtb. First, wearing the gloves is a great idea, but make sure they are not too tight and resticting the blood flow around your wrists, or cutting of the circulation to your fingers. Also, I would recommend a pair that has a lot of gel padding in the palm area where you contact the grip. Next, it is possible that a softer and larger grip would benefit you - especially if you have large hands. Find a grip that is soft and has a lot of material. Some grips may also have a larger contour in the middle which may also help - and more ergonomic than a straight uniform thickness grip. Get a pair of bar ends - and also place grip material on these - and this will allow multiple hand positions to alleviate pressure points and cramps on your hands. Change hand positions frequently while riding. Finally, if you do not have front suspension, consider getting a bike with a front fork to absorb shock and impact on your hands. Take a few small breaks after riding about 1/2 hour, and swing your arms in circles to restore blood flow for a minute or so. You may also consider taking a small (81mg) dose of Aspirin before you ride, and it may help your blood flow a bit as well.... good luck - let me know how these tips may help!!!! ride on stan What is the best way to approach and succeed a sharp downhill switchback without falling off the cliff. I get intimidated and completely stop and walk the sharp cutback. Any suggestions? Dena, Hello... here are some tips that come to mind while riding switchbacks (*Note: if the switchback has a death fall if you go over the edge, walking may be the best technique - don't exceed your skill or trust level with the terrain) (remember - walking is better than crashing).. Anyhow, a switchback may require an excellent use of balance, speed, control, traction, and technique - so it really is a tough technique to master. On top of that, you have a possible hazardous consequence is you screw up. There is a psychological factor as well, and also maybe some heights involved. You need to first technique your balance by riding at slow speed. Try to ride as slow as possible in a small area and still balance. Being able to stop, and keep balance wothout touching the ground (a trackstand) is an excellent way to practice. You will want to be standing out of the saddle for a switchback, and hands on the brake levers to control speed. Look at the trail, and a safe line - not over the edge!! You can also practice making a U-turn on a medium width trail. Do this for 10 -20 minutes and you will improve a great deal right away. Better yet, practice riding in circles, and make them smaller and smaller as you go. Get used to standing up on the pedals, and making the slowest & sharpest turns possible without stopping. Practice both directions. Good luck with your next switchback - hope this helps!! ride on stan So ive started to love mountain biking and am still in the learning process. I bike alot of single track with some buds. A lot of times we go off some drops ranging from a foot to 3 feet. I have trouble attacking the high drops. I see them just fly off the drops and land smoothly, given that one of them is a pro racer. I on the otherhand have to find a good point where i can roll off the drop and the few times i tried to "really" go off the drop i went over my handle bars or had really really rough landings. So what is a good way to fly off the jump and land smoothly? Thanks, John John, Hello! About riding over a dropoff.. there are a few things that I can think of, but this is not my specialty!! However, when I rode MX bikes, it was a common thing to encounter. A lot of it involves confidence, timing, balance and proper speed. Start on small dropoffs first where you can do it easily after practice. Remember to land on the wheel rear first, or at least both together and have enough speed. A dropoff on level ground is easier than a downhill one... Progress to bigger dropoffs one step at a time. Relax and stay loose, if you get tense you will have trouble... Here are some tips: *Make sure the landing area is clear *Keep the crank arms horizontal and your weight centered or slightly back *Pull up slightly on the front wheel right before it goes airborne *Keep up speed after landing *Practice riding the same dropoff again & again....work you way up to bigger ones *Do NOT allow your weight to shift forward, or land on the front wheel Dropoffs are frequently part of the terrain mtb'ers ride on, and if you need to dismount, or go over them slowly -like the small ones - that is OK!! Sometimes, there will be a small downhill dropoff less than a foot, and I'll just lift up and try to sail over the whole thing and keep up my speed. The cliff style &larger dropoffs are more off a stunt or BMX type situation, so some riders will just bypass them and be happy... Good luck! ride on stan How can I prevent an endo?? Craig, Hello... sorry to hear about too many endo's. One good thing is that you are probably pretty good at bailing out if you go over the bars with all that practice! I'm pretty good at it myself!! Anyhow, here are some tips that may help you: *Firm up the front fork a bit if you can, and make sure you have a well inflated front tire... go to around 40-45 lbs. before every ride. Make sure that you have the proper "sag" on the fork, and the spring is the right weight for you and not too weak. *When descending, keep WAY back so that the seat is on your breastbone instead of your stomach. *If you ride with gear, keep it low on the bike, and back. If you ride with a camelback, consider switching to a butt pack. A rear rack or seat post bag is better than a handlebar bag, or wearing a back pack when you ride. *Keep your wrists low when riding and get your palms behind the bar instead of on top of it, and a firm grip on the bars will also help in difficult sections. By keeping your wrists turned down, you will have more leverage to counteract an endo. *Move your seat back on the rails, and make sure the nose is not tilted too far down. *Get a higher profile front tire. *Anticipate parts of the trail that may be conducive to endo's, and BE PREPARED. Hope this helps... ride on ~stan~ Hello guys. I have a question. I ride a Specialized Hotrock A1 FS 26 and I am a clydesdale. I notice on longer rides (Over 1 hour) my wrists tend to get sore way before any other of my body. This really plays into how long I may or may not be able to ride. I bought the best steed I could afford and I am saving up for a Stumpjumper dualie, but the soonest I can afford it will be next year, so in the mean time I want to make my ride as user-friendly as possible. I have already upgraded to a Rock Shox Duke fork, and that helped a little, but my wrists are still feeling the pain. My question is this: I was wondering if upgrading to a 40 degree stem would help take some of the stress off of my wrists. What do you think? Do you have any other suggestions? I ride to get in shape and have already lost 20+ lbs. (I now weigh 258 lbs. and I'm 6'4". Any help you have to offer will be greatly appreciatted. P.S. Tell Stan I said hello. I talked to him on the phone a few weeks ago when I won a Topeak Alien auction. That tool is very cool! You guys are great. Keep up the good work and drop me a line next time you come near VA. -Shawn Shawn, Hello! Thanx for your inquiry about your wrists getting fatigued while riding... I am also a clydesdale (6'6" 240 lbs.) and sometimes this can happen to me. First, make sure that you have nice and large comfortable grips. This will lessen the tension on your hands, fingers, and wrists. If your hand is BIG like mine, you need a larger grip, so start here. Next, ride with a nice pair of padded gloves with a gel palm. This can minimize jolts and the shock of rough terrain even with the front suspension. Also, get bar end extenders if you don't have them already to allow for a different hand position and grip technique. This reduces wrist fatigue quite a bit. Try moving your seat fore and aft to see if that alters anything, or rotating your bars a bit if they are risers. Make sure that your brake levers are adjusted properly, and comfortable. It would not hurt to also do some wrist exercises or curls with some 10 -20 lb. weights a couple of times a week. Maybe take a Motrin before you ride!! Anyhow, hope that some of this will help... if not, then maybe try to adjust the stem height and angle, etc... Good Luck ~~stan~~ Hey, My name's Dave & I thought u might be able to help me I am having trouble sustaining my wheelies I pull back on the handle bars (in a low gear) and pedal quickly I can get good height and a small amount of distance but I want to be able to cycle a lot further on the one wheel, what am I doing wrong? also bunny hops I have looked at your help page and found it very interesting, do u think u could give me some more tips cos its so easy to get the front wheel up but the back doesn't lift this technique of twisting the handlebars how will it rotate the bike if my feet are on the pedals pushing down do I need to take my weight off the pedals while I twist? One more thing, I have just brought a new bike (Saracon Ikon) and the rear suspension is too tight the spring is fully stretched out as far as it can, but it feels as if the problem is that the spring isn't flexible enough, could it b that its just cos the bike is new or what could the problem be? Dave, Hello! Keep practicing the wheelies and go to one higher gear instead of a lower gear. They are not easy to sustain, and require good pedal power and excellent balance. The most common error is pulling up too hard on the bars, and using a jerking motion... this type of wheelie will be a short one. Instead, try to lean back more and use power to lift the front end. Don't use as much arm action. Once you get the hang of using the leaning back technique, you will use little arm strength, and the wheelie will seem more effortless. Think leverage instead of pulling up on the bars - get your weight way back on the bike almost as if you are falling off the rear. As for the bunny hopping, you should remove the weight from the pedals when twisting the bars to lift the rear. This also requires some practice and leverage. On your new bike, if it feels like the spring is too tight and it is set to the maximum length, it may be the wrong spring rate for your weight. The rear shock springs come in different stiffness, and you may require a softer spring. Check out the number on the spring itself, and drop down to a softer one. If you mount the bike, and there is little or no sag, then the spring is most likely too stiff for your weight. This may be your problem... Thanx for visitin' ride on stan Is there any special maintenance that I should do after riding through deep water, especially when riding in it once a week? Thanks, Tim Tim, Hello! Water is really not too good for your bike - but I ride in it all the time! Creek crossings, rain, streams, bogs, mud holes, springs, etc... all make for a wet trail The components damaged by deep water are the hubs & bottom bracket. If these parts go under, you can expect to need more lubing and maintenance and possible rust damage of these parts. For shallower water, it's not to serious - just dry off your bike after a ride. If the hubs and bottom bracket is above the waterline you should be OK. Most of the rest of the bike is unaffected by water if you dry the parts off... Hope this helps! stan *Greetings from the Philippines, First of all I would like to say your website is very helpful specially on safety tips and etiquette. I am an overweight (5'6", 200lbs), late twenties male. I recently (like a month ago) bought a mountain bike to help me lose if not, maintain my weight. I was into biking before and I owned a Racer Bike and was really fit. Well, that was 8 years ago. A friend who had recently had his prostate checked advised that cycling can cause prostate problems or worse, it can cause testicular cancer. I need your advise if this is true. After on the bike for more than an hour, I feel something different between my anus and testicles. It is not painful but an odd feeling that it has something to do on the bike. What shall I do to avoid having a prostate problem by biking? pls help... Thanks and regards, Hello! Thanx for your inquiry... There are a few things that you can do to minimize any damage to your body. Here are some ideas... 1 - get an ergonomic saddle with a cut out, or liberator design, fairly wide 2 - get a gel seat cover for your saddle - even if ergonomic design too... 3 - get a suspension seatpost - like the thudbuster or rockshox 4 - get a rear suspension bike 5 - ride with padded shorts in the crouch area 6 - get off of the saddle while riding periodically 7 - stay hydrated and urinate frequently while riding 8 - keep the nose of the saddle down a bit. Hope this helps! Thanx for visitin' Ride On ~~Stan~~ * I have a mountain biking etiquette question. Sometimes there is a conflict between "downhill riders yielding to uphill riders" and "yielding to the right". I was riding last night, when coming down single track trails I of coarse always yield to up hill riders. However, when I get out on the fire roads and am going down hill I usually yield to the right. I fact it's almost instinct to go to the right. Well last night I was coming down a fire road, I was staying to the right while up hill riders were coming up on their right. I came upon a rider who was coming up hill on the fire road on his far left. we saw each other and he starting pointing to his right, I instinctively went to my right ( at this point I had already passed 25 riders on my left) , as we got closer he started yelling " up-hill riders have the right of way", my instinct was to stay right but eventually went LEFT to avoid a collision. I felt that the two "right of ways" were in conflict and he should be coming up a fire road on his right especially with know riders steadily coming down fast on their right... What's the call? Marcel, Hello! It sounds like you had the better etiquette here, and your way of thinking was the proper one. The fact that you are even sending this e-mail shows your concern, and willingness to "do the right thing". First of all, it is common policy to yield to the right. Only in unusual circumstances (like a 1,000 ft. dropoff on the right) should this rule be violated. You did the correct thing to expect the other rider to go to the right also.... Second, it was poor etiquette for the other rider to yell "uphill riders have the right of way"... this made it seem like you were wrong, when you really weren't. In my view, uphill riders don't always have the "right of way". You are courteous to always yield to them. My policy is to yield to the oncoming rider no matter what, if the trail is narrow. If it is wide enough, you can just pass to his right (the right of way rule). Likewise, if someone comes up from behind, stay to the right and let him pass. The "uphill" "downhill" issue is not as clear cut, and sometimes leads to confusion. If the grade is not steep and there is room, you can pass each other carefully using the "stay to the right" rule and neither dismount. On singletrack, if you are going downhill on a gentle grade, then it is good etiquette to let the uphill rider keep their cadence and to yield to them .However, if the grade is steep, and the uphill riders are willing to yield, then you may have the right of way as the downhill rider! It may be difficult for you to stop, or slow down, so they should get out of the way. Also, chances are they are going slow or walking on the uphill grade, and it is relatively easy for them to stop. It may be tough for you to stop, so they should yield. I have encountered many situations like this, and when the uphill riders see me blazing downhill on their line, they always instinctively "get out of the way". It is far easier for them to stop than you. They expect to move out of the way, and yield with pleasure. Likewise, when going uphill, I always yield to the faster downhill rider. It is also a nice gesture to say "hello" or "thanx" when passing another rider out of courtesy. It is improper to shout or yell about who had the right of way... Good luck on your rides, it sounds like you already have the proper etiquette, and will do the correct thing. Ride On ~~Stan~~ * Hi Stan, I am around 190-200 lbs., I am usually 190 that is because I ride my bike all the time, I hit any kind of trail I can find, from dirt and mud all the way to nice drops (most of them 3-4 feet) I have been riding bikes for along time, mountain biking for about 5-6 years, I have an older Schwinn Moab bike that I ride now. Other things I think will be important is that I want a bike that can handle big drops, because over the summer I have family that lives in Wyoming and I am going mountain biking over there and I want something that can handle that, also I have had people tell me to look into the Fisher Sugar and the GT I drive bikes, I did not know what to do so that is why I E-mailed you guys. Thanks... Lino, I believe you might be happy with the gt - i drive 3.0. It goes for around $1500. My riding partner had one for about 2 years, and they have gotten a lot better... It is a great bike, and certainly one to test ride. You may have to beef up the springs in the front and rear shock, but I would certainly test drive one. We are affiliated with a dealer of the i-drives, and can help you locate one or ship one to you if you want. Anyhow, start with one of these, give it a test ride, and let me know what you think. There are many, many choices, and it is hard to decide. Narrow your self to 2 or 3 bikes, and then shop around. You'll know when you get the right one. Ride at least 3 or 4 to start..... Hope this helps........ Ride One ~~Stan~~ * MaNiMaL, Hey...Bleeder here. If you wouldn't mind, please provide a quick piece of advice... I've upgraded my entire drivetrain incl. fork, stem and handlebars on my 1997 Trek 7000 and am extremily pleased with the result. I feel the bike is much quicker than before on singletrack, and I attribute this to a major drop in weight in the bike itself, and I feel more comfortable in a slightly more upright position with a new, shorter, rise stem. I live in Florida where there are no real hills to climb, but with the few that are here, they're sandy, short and steep. The only problem that I'm experiencing with my new "upgrades" are that when I'm climbing, my front tire seems to come off the ground @ half-way up the grade, which did happen before the changes, but it's more common now. I try to get my ass down and centered to get more traction so I'm not too far forward, but I lose it every time. The new fork has the same travel as before (3 inches), but the new stem is shorter (90mm as opposed to 135mm), and has a 15 degree rise as opposed to 5 with the longer stem. I use a flat bar and continue to do so. Before messing with anything, I was wondering if it was worth putting the longer, flatter stem back on, or should I just work on my technique with the stem I have? It's a bit odd, as I do feel more comfortable with the new stem, but I wondered if the more upright stance was the cause of my wheel coming up on the climbs? What's your thoughts?? Thanks for any help or advice... Bleeder, Sounds like you are enjoying your new set-up with the new front end. Probably leave everything as it is for now and try a couple of things. First of all, try moving your seat forward on the rails. This will put your weight more forward when climbing, and will help quite a bit when the front wheel lifts of the ground going uphill. Also, try a pair of bar end extenders to allow you to grip more forward and thus also help to shift your weight forward when climbing. It also gives you another hand position for comfort when riding on level ground. Another little tip, when climbing try to keep your nose low to the bars when in the crouch position, and sit on the nose of the seat. If you do these things, and find that you back tire spins when climbing, and the front wheel stays on the ground, then back off a little as you may have overdone the adjustments. I think you will adjust to the new set-up, and just a few adjustments will get you comfortable again. Please let me know if this helps, and Ride On... ~~Stan~~ *I am looking for a bike with 18 or more speeds that I can sit comfortably in an upright position. I have ridden a ten speed for thirty years and now have neck problems when bending over and looking up. I would like the type of bike they use in Europe. I ride mainly on bike trails and streets. What would you recommend? Bob Bob, Thanx for your e-mail about the type of bike we would recommend for you. We understand that you have ridden a 10 speed for 30 years and have neck problems.... Here are a few ideas... First, try one of the new "comfort" bikes which have the high wrap around handlebars and fat seats. Also called "cruisers", these bikes are designed for comfort and certainly more comfortable than a 10 speed. You may also want to try a recumbent bike, although they take a little getting used to.. A hybrid mountainbike would also be a good choice, and you could raise the bars so you didn't have to lean over as much, as well as get front and rear shocks to absorb and bumps on the roads or trails. A full suspension bike avoids a lot of wear and tear on your forearms and hands, as well as your shoulders and upper body... The proper fit is also necessary in relation to the bike frame size and distance between the seat and the handlebars, handlebar height, handlebar width, etc... Let us know if you have any more specific questions, we would be glad to help! Ride On ~~MaNIMaL~~ *How do I find good trails in my area? There are many ways to find great mountainbiking trails wherever you live! One technique is to buy a map of your county by ADC (available at many stores like 7-11, etc) and look for all the parks and greenspaces near you and then go and check them out. You will undoubtedly find new trails you can mountainbike on! Also, the next time you visit a bike shop in your area, ask where they mountainbike. There are also many books and guides written, as well as using the internet. *Hi. I was reading through the FAQ, and saw someone from Maryland ask about trails. You said if they emailed you their location you'd let them know where some good trails were. I'm in Silver Spring, MD, and was wondering if you could point out some trails in the area. Please respond Nick, We know of plenty of great trails in this region, but would like some additional info to send you to the right ones for you! Please note that in our "fat tire festival" section you can order a trail book which we have found to be awesome for trails in the mid atlantic region. It is the one that is listed under West Virginia, or Pennsylvania called "Mountain bike Mid Atlantic States- New York to West Virginia" This book has helped us to find trails we didn't know about. You can order it thru our site from Barnes and Noble. Please let us know what type of trails you like to ride, and the degree of difficulty you are interested in. Also, how long you have been riding and do you have full suspension, etc.. and what type of bike you ride would be helpful. We can tell you about lots of trails, but need to know your skill level. Do you want technical singletrack or just simple doubletrack, and what day of the week do you usually ride? Get back in touch, or give us a call at 1 877 YOU-BIKE ~~MaNiMaL~~ *Can I mountainbike on this trail? It is O.K. to assume you can mountainbike on a selected trail if: 1) There are no posted signs saying "No Bicycles" 2) There are not any "No Trespassing Signs" 3) It is not a designated "Wilderness Area" 4) There is not a "No Mechanized Vehicles" sign 5) You are not in a "Restricted Area" 6) If it looks good, GO FOR IT! *What if I have a question about a closed trail? Please contact The International Mountain Bike Association, or the IMBA, at Route 2, Box303, Bishop, CA 93514. They may help to open a closed trail or let you know why it is closed. *What tools should I carry on the trail? This is dependent upon your skill as a mechanic, how long you will be riding, and personal preference. Here are some suggestions>> A tire patch kit - an all purpose tool like the Leatherman or Alien - tire irons - spoke wrenches - pump - spare nuts and bolts - set of hex wrenches - chain tool - spare links - spare tube. The longer and farther you go, the more you may need. Check with your riding buddy and don't duplicate tools, so that you can limit the weight factor between you. *What if I get caught on a trail that is not for mountainbiking? Plead innocence and treat whoever caught you with respect and kindness. Don't be rude or overbearing, and promise to leave. A surefire way to get off is to make sure you always pick up any trail litter, as this will give you mucho "Brownie Points" with your accuser if you show it to him! We have sometimes ridden in questionable areas, but have never been arrested or fined. . . *How can I sign up for trail maintenance in my area? Boulder, CO Last year the Subaru/IMBA Trail Care Crew program visited 110 clubs and land management agencies in 40 U.S. states, two Canadian provinces and seven countries. In '01, the award-winning Trail Care Crew returns for its fifth year, leading trailwork sessions, trailbuilding schools and meetings with mountain bike clubs and land management agencies across the United States, Canada and abroad. Subaru of America has renewed its financial and vehicle support with IMBA for the TCC program through at least 2003, ensuring the future of this invaluable program. Trail Care Crew veterans Joey Klein, Rich Edwards and Jen Edwards are also returning to the line-up. Their cumulative trail design, maintenance and construction expertise and worldwide perspective is the heart and soul of the program's value to mountain biking and land managers. The 2001 Trail Care Crew schedule is the strongest ever. Through the cold winter months, the crews' visits include South Carolina, Hawaii, Florida, Arizona, Louisiana, Tennessee, North Carolina, Oklahoma and Athens,Greece where Klein will work with the Union Cycliste Internationale, or UCI, to develop the 2004 Olympic mountain bike course. The spring schedule includes stops in Virginia, West Virginia, Pennsylvania, New Mexico, Arizona, Utah, California, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Maine and Nevada. The Crews will spend National Trails Day, June 2, in Potomac, Maryland and Pinetop/Lakeside, Arizona. The summer and fall months will include New York, Vermont, Ontario (Canada), Michigan, Utah, Wyoming, South Dakota, North Dakota, Illinois, Wisconsin, Iowa, Nevada, Minnesota, Nebraska, Colorado, Idaho, Montana, Washington, Missouri, Kentucky, Ohio, West Virginia, North Carolina, Alberta (CAN), British Columbia (CAN), Alaska, Oregon and northern California. To learn more about the Subaru/IMBA Trail Care Crew and find out where and when you can get involved with a TCC-lead trailwork session or trailbuilding school in your area, visit IMBA's website, http://www.imba.com and click on "Trail Care Crew." While online, you can also read the Crews' journals and view pictures from TCC visits, as well as check out articles on trail design, maintenance and construction. * FOR IMBA AND TCC LOGOS, VISIT: http://imba.com/resources/logos/index.html -- Jon Alegranti International Mountain Bicycling Association PO Box 7578, Boulder CO 80306 ph: 303-545-9011 x107, fax 303-545-9026 email jon@imba.com If you would like to contribute to the sport of mountainbiking, trail maintenance is a great idea. Please contact IMBA at 1 888 442-IMBA and they will let you know how you can help. Their web site at IMBA.com is also helpful, or you can contact us here at WEBMOUNTAINBIKE. |
