I would like to know if it is difficult to change a front wheel hub from a standard stud to a quick release version. Does it require complete disassembly of the wheel/spokes or can the center axle/stud be removed and replaced easily? Thanks - Greg Lui - Generally speaking it would not be to tough. You could swap axles, but most inexpensive bikes without QR's have a smaller diameter axle. The larger diameter QR axle most likely won't fit. Thanks for the question, Your friend at WMB... Mike Hey Manimal, I have a couple of spoke nipples that need replaced because they are now stripped due to my over adjusting (and poor nipple wrench). I'm looking for some advice or instructions on replacing them? I would appreciate any help you may be able to give. Thanks in advance! -Todd Todd, You can replace each defective nipple by simply by removing the tire and tube, peeling back the rim tape, and then exchanging the nipple..You must get the same size nipple so keep the old one to match up (use the old spoke to match it up). You may want to apply some oil to it's threads. Make sure you have the correct size spoke wrench and turn it in the proper direction. You may also need a new spoke if the threads on that are stripped as well. This is a repair that you can do yourself, but most shops can do it quite easily and with little expense as the parts are cheap. Best thing is to take the bike into your local shop - if you have one... thanx stan I have a Question about my mountain bike's rear wheel ( I own an Oryx hard tail). I ride my bike aggresively on both the trails and street. When I ride on the street, due to the unforgiving pavement and curbs, my wheel becomes untrue. I wanted to know if a wheel on a bmx bike (i know you guys aren't a bmx site) would become untrue just the same as my mountain bike's wheel would. I also would like to know if tire pressure has something to do with the wheel becoming untrue. Thanks Richard Richard, Hello! About your question about the wheel truing.... it all depends on the type & quality of rim, number and size of the spokes, hub, tire & pressure, and maintenance. Some wheels are not designed to take any punishment, and each time you hit a curb, or big hit on the trail, it will knock it out of true. If you are having a problem with this, get a new rear wheel. I had to get a nice quality rim with 36 heavy gauge spokes (instead of 32) and have eliminated most of the problem with truing. Occaisional truing is now all that I need, and only every 5 or 10 rides does it go out of true - unless I crash maybe.... BMX wheels should be able to take a bigger hit in general. What do you have on your bike now? Good Luck stan Hello, I am having another problem that hopefully you can help me with (I don't know if you remember me, but I contacted you a while ago with a question). I have a 2000 KHS Alite 1000. The problem is with my back wheel. It isn't centered. The tire only clears the frame by a hair on the chain side (it sometimes hits the frame going over bumps) and it has almost an inch of clearance on the other side. Is there a way to move the wheel over about half an inch? I would very much appreciate any advice you can give me. Thanks in advance, and I look forward to getting your reply. Dave DAve, Hello! I'll try to help you with the wheel question.. First, it is possible that if you had a wipeout, that you may have bent the dropouts or the frame, and that is your problem. A mechanic can bend it back if needed. More likely, the rear wheel is not fully pushed into the dropouts on each side. Loosen the quick release, or bolt holding the wheel, and press it firmly fully into the dropouts on each side. Before tightenening, you can "skew" it a little so that the wheel is centered & equidistant from both sides of the frame. Then tighten it in the dropouts securely. There ia also a way to "dish" the wheel which involves tightening the spokes only on one side and this allows for a slight change in position, but nothing major. It just pulls the wheel to one side a little. Let me know if this helps, or if you need any more assistance. great site! a quick question.... there is slight play in my back rim. what i mean is that it appears to be loose in the axle. i can hold the rim and rock it slightly. is this a problem or can i tighten it myself.... please help! thanks peter Peter, Make sure your rear wheel has a tight quick release, and is firmly tightened in the dropouts. If no quick release, make sure the bolts are tight holding the axel in the dropouts. It sounds as if you may have a worn hub bearing, in which case you may need to replace your hub or rebuild it. The rebuild is probably best done at a bike shop, especially if you have standard ball bearings and not cartridge bearings. If the hub bearings are worn, you will be able to move the wheel slightly from side to side when grabbing it and wiggling it. Also, you may notice a shimmy in the bike at high speed>>check this on a smooth surface such as a road when coasting at a good clip... if it wobbles, you need to correct it ASAP. Please let us know what you decide to do, and we hope that we have helped you! ~~MaNiMaL~~ Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. I took the wheel off the bike last night and just tightened the axel/hub bolts and this did the trick. I just had the bike in for a tune up and I guess when the shop greased the back hub, they didnt tighten it enough. Peter *What causes the bike to wobble when coasting? This is most likely caused by a bent rim or bad wheel bearing or hub. Check the hub and bearing by grabbing the wheel and checking for sideways movement. Lift the bike and spin the wheel to check for alignment. Make sure that all of your spokes are tight, and the wheel is not "out of true". Check for a bent rim, or warped or bad tire. Also, check to see that the axle is tight in the dropouts & centered properly. |
